Pruning
Training of young decorative trees
Plant growth
For a plant to grow, it needs food, water, light and a suitable climate. Plants have adapted to many different living conditions, so their climate needs are very different. But when the basic needs are met, they grow in a fundamentally similar way. This is one of the reasons why they can reproduce according to certain patterns. The most active cell activity takes place in the soft green shoots, where the hormones that stimulate and control the plant's growth are produced. Prolonging growth is, in principle, made just below the topmost top shoot or end bud. This shoot has what is known as apical dominance, which in simple terms means that the top shoot dominates over the side shoots so that the top shoot develops more strongly than the side shoots, giving them more growth power. The hormones go down the stem and limit the growth of the side shoots. The side shoots begin to grow after the top shoot has developed strong growth.

If the top shoot is destroyed, one side shoot typically grows up and replaces the top shoot. However, it is also not uncommon for two or more side shoots to replace the apical dominance of the destroyed top shoot.
Another area of intense cell activity is in the cambium layer - the area between the bark and the wood. It is this layer that enables plants to graft. When two plants are genetically compatible, the cambium layer between the stems can be fused when they are pressed together over a period of time. The growth of the cambium layer makes the stem and stalk thicker and harder, a process called lignification. This process is stimulated by the movement of stem and trunk caused by wind.
How plant growth adapts
The main goal of a plant is to grow to maturity and reproduce (usually via seeds). Many plants then die and they are called annual and biennial plants. Woody and herbaceous perennials often take longer to grow to maturity and repeat reproduction several times. Such plants often develop special cold- and weather-resistant properties to survive. Trees and shrubs develop hard and persistent tissue that can withstand winter cold. The Norwegian cold often kills the softest part of the growth of shrubs in particular, but also some trees. The plants then typically produce new shoots from the harder woody part that has survived, these shoots can flower and form seeds in one season.
Adapting to damage and disease
Plants are often able to limit the spread of disease that most often attacks via the vulnerable softwood growth. It develops natural barriers across the stem via protective chemical reactions, isolating the attack. When the barrier is complete, the isolated part dies and dries out. The insulating process occurs in the cambium layer where rapid cell division takes place, creating scars and callus tissue. The more damage there is to the cambium layer, the longer it takes the plant to heal the wound. Pruning can make a big difference here. You should remove dead branches that may be colonized by destructive organisms that can lead to infections. If a plant has already created a natural barrier between fresh and dead plant material, never cut into the fresh part. However, if the plant is attacked by, for example, canker, the disease spreads so quickly that the plant itself is unable to create a barrier in time. A clean cut underneath all the damage and disease heals much faster than an unclean cut. Never make a cut that is larger than necessary and try to make it where the plant's defense mechanisms work best, just above a node or shoot.
Main principle
The whole plant should be considered before pruning. The most important pruning is the removal of dead, diseased and damaged plant material. This increases the plant's chance of healing and survival. Furthermore, pruning is done to strengthen the plant's supporting structure, to make crops conveniently available, to increase flowering and fruit-bearing capabilities and to stimulate vigorous growth or other desired traits.
Broken apical dominance
When a stem is broken or cut, the apical dominance of the top shoot is broken. Shoots shoot out just below the break point and further down the stem. These latent shoots are often hidden under the bark until they are stimulated to grow. Apical dominance can also be broken if the top shoot is laid or tied horizontally. The flow of sap is reduced and several side shoots develop simultaneously along the main stem. All will grow upwards with relatively equal vigor, and are far more likely to flower and form fruit. This is a great technique for many climbing plants and other long flexible plants.
Impact on the power of new growth
By stagnating growth on shoots via pruning, new growth is stimulated elsewhere on the plant. As a rule of thumb, the harder you prune, the more vigorous the new growth will be - provided the plant is in good health and can tolerate the pruning.
Timing of pruning
Timing is important and directly related to age and flowering. For example, late summer and fall flowering shrubs will flower on annual growth. Early summer- and spring-flowering shrubs flower on the previous year's growth and are pruned after flowering. Plants that bleed after pruning should not be pruned in spring, since the flow of sap is strongest in spring so the pressure will cause extra bleeding. Evergreen plants may produce new growth that is damaged by frost and cold winds if pruned too early in the spring or too late in the summer.
Training of young trees
Trees grown from seed, root cuttings and softwood cuttings will often have one upright shoot with an end bud. A hardwood cuttings typically develops its top shoot from the uppermost lateral bud, if you only want a trunk, lower shoots are removed. Many varietal trees are developed via grafting, the point where the graft and rootstock meet is often visible with a swelling. A tree that has been grafted via tile germination will have growth in the form of a single shoot from the grafting site. Shoots from the rootstock or roots must be removed. The top shoot will develop from the top leaf node on the scion as with hardwood cuttings. Shoots below the top shoot should be pinched if a single stem is required.

First year training
First year growth will sometimes have leaves and small shoots growing out from the main stem. These should NOT be removed unless they are diseased or dying, as the tree needs all available leaves to build up further growth. During the first winter, a healthy tree rarely needs pruning, but weak and strange-growing shoots can be pruned. If the top shoot is weak, the main trunk can be pruned back to a strong shoot. The tree does not need staking unless the trunk is weak and unstable. If the tree is staked, give the trunk plenty of wiggle room to sway in the wind. Also take care not to damage the roots with staking. Strong side shoots that threaten the dominance of the top shoot must be shortened or removed. If the top shoot is broken and several side shoots are competing to replace the top shoot, select one that can take the role and prune the others.
Second year training
Strong side shoots are developed. Only remove dead, damaged and diseased growth, and any shoots that compete with the top shoot.
Tree shape
Most 2-year-old trees can be planted out on a permanent site where they can be trained to grow in specific ways via pruning. Some trees are only predisposed to grow in a certain way, while others are very flexible.

Evergreen trees are often trained as feathery trees, with a simple trunk clothed with side shoots all the way from bottom to top. Deciduous trees can be shaped in many ways, but it's a good idea to stick to a structure that is natural for the tree.
Feather-shaped tree
An easy way to train a tree. Only dead, diseased and damaged material is removed. You also remove shoots that cross each other and shoots that grow too vertically next to the main trunk. Evergreen trees should not have a large and dense crown, as snowy Norwegian winters often create too much weight and break branches. The feather shape counteracts this.
Standard shaped trees
Standard shaped trees have a long clear trunk that is surrounded by a crown where a single top shoot dominates or several branches share dominance. Many types of trees develop this shape on their own, but you can improve the prospects for the tree and its fruit-bearing production via pruning. A clear lower trunk should be developed gradually and early in the tree's life to reduce the size of pruning scars. If you prune all the lower side branches at the same time, many dormant buds far down the trunk will come to life and further reduce top growth. Another reason to take it step by step is that low branches provide the tree with a lot of energy and strengthen the entire tree's growth in young years.
Standard central leader
To create a standard central leader, the tree is pruned to focus growth around the extension of the main trunk. The danger is that the top growth is destroyed or outcompeted by other shoots on the tree, both of which can be corrected through good pruning.

Branch head standard
The standard branch head shape occurs naturally, for example on many oak trees, but the pattern can take years to develop. The top shoot loses apical dominance to a number of strong side shoots further down the trunk. It's also common to prune trees to a branch-headed form that is otherwise naturally predisposed to grow in the form of a standard central leader.

Multi-stemmed shape
Common natural shape of trees with root shoots, shoots from the base of the trunk. The effect can also be achieved in some single-trunked trees by pruning the trunk back hard, so that multiple trunks develop. The pruning stimulates dormant buds further down to produce strong shoots the following year. Only certain species can handle this type of pruning, which should never be used on grafted trees. Inward-growing branches may need to be pruned to prevent growth becoming too dense.
